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JAMMU
Jammu city is sprinkled with temples, so much so, it is
often called the city of temples and the very fame of it
tends to overshadow its palaces, forts and forests. It is a
land of grand ancient temples and beautiful palaces all
nestling in the foothills of the Himalayas. Jammu is
actually two towns. The old town sits on a hilltop
overlooking the river and several kilometers away, across
the river is the new town of Jammu Tawi.
It is said that, on becoming King, the Suryavanshi Jambu
Lochan went on a hunt and, crossing the Tawi river, found a
deer and a tiger drinking water from the same tank. His
ministers explained that this meant that the soil of the
place was so virtuous that no living creature bore enmity
against another. Raja Jambu Lochan who lived in the later
Vedic period, decided to found his capital, Jambupura on his
soil, on the right bank of the Tawi, overlooking his brother
king Bahu's fort. Today the temple of Maha Kali (better
known as Bahu or Bawey Wali Mata), located in the Bahufort,
is considered second only to Mata Vaishno Devi in terms of
mystical power. The present temple was built shortly after
the coronation of Maharaja Gulab Singh, in 1822. The
existing fort, as well as the Manasabdar's palace inside it,
was constructed in 1820. If Bahu Mata is the presiding deity
of Jammu, the dargah of Peer Budhan Ali Shah is the other
shrine that protects Jammuites. The other major tourist
attraction is the Ragunath Temple Complex. Maharaja Gulab
Singh began the construction of the Raghunath Mandir Complex
in the crowded downtown Bazaar named after it, in 1851. It
was left to his son, Ranbir Singh to inaugurate it six years
later. Perhaps the most popular temple north of Benares, it
contains representations of almost the entire Hindu
pantheon, though the emphasis falls on the various
incarnations of Lord Vishnu. The complex houses a rich
collection of ancient texts and manuscripts.
There are two contradictory aspects to the city of Jammu -
on one hand are the age-old dry fruit shops while on the
other hand are the designer boutiques, which display the
very latest in fashion. The main market places are the
Raghunath bazaar and the Hari bazaar, which are famous for
Kashmiri handicrafts, traditional Dogra jewellery and
various dry fruits like walnuts, raisins, figs etc. Jammu is
also known for the superlative quality of its basmati rice,
rajma (red beans), aam-papar (dried and candied mango peel),
anar-dana (dried pomegranate seeds) and barfis (milk
sweets).
The holy cave shrine of Vaishno Devi is situated in a
beautiful recess of the Trikuta Mountains forming a part of
the lower Himalayas at an altitude of over 5000 feet. In the
cave, there are images of three deities viz. the Mahakali,
Mahalakshmi and Mahasaraswati. For the devotees it is a
journey to peace and solace. For nature lovers it is an
excursion amidst breathtaking scenic beauty. The shrine can
be visited throughout the year, but during the winter season
the route is often blocked by snowfall.
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